Greek mythology has it that the rocky island of Mykonos was produced by Hercules when he hurled a pile of boulders at a group of wicked giants who were trying to topple the gods.
Today, Mykonos is more the natural home of Dionysus, the god of wine and crazed dancing.
Over the past 40 years, it has actually come to be the individual island of the Cyclades and also one that is specifically preferred with gay visitors - although resorts are interested to stress they are 'straight-friendly'.
Since the Seventies, Chora, the island's main town, has tripled in size to suit the visitor invasion.
Those vacationers have actually mainly come for the night life.
Clubs in town and along the coastline come to life at twelve o'clock at night and also remain open until 6am.
For a taste of nocturnal Mykonos, head a number of roads away from the seafront to Malamatenias, where you'll discover Interni - a dining establishment in an open yard lined with olive trees.
You could consume below - the deep-fried shellfishes and also the snapper are superb - or have an alcoholic drink at bench while doing some beautiful-people-watching.
The community is near-empty in the early morning, as the clubbers sleep off their hangovers. Chora returns to its indigenous citizens: the widows in black often tending to their potted geraniums as well as bougainvilleas; the senior guys who look after the tiny Byzantine chapels scattered through the community.
Chora is a collection of turning roads - designed, some say, to confuse raiding pirates; others believe they are to deflect the lethal winds that come whipping in off the Aegean.
Both globes - of pleasure-seekers and also residents - co-exist happily enough, working on their various timescales.
And also you could still discover great deals of places unspoilt by mass tourism.
At Koynelas fish dining establishment, merely held up from Chora's primary promenade, take your pick from the catch of the day and also it will certainly be smoked instantly. I had a very fresh sea bass for ₤ 13.
Santa Marina Resort is - thank goodness for a noise-hater such as me - 2 miles far from Chora. It controls the little bay of Ornos and also the hotel itself is perched on the slopes over the bay having actually merely been refurbished.
The generously-sized spaces, in muted shades of off-white and also white, examine the sea to the Cycladic islands on the southern horizon.
I sit for one hours at a time on my huge porch, as the night light captures the pure white wall surfaces of the quarries of Naxos-- where several of the very best marble in ancient Greece hails from.
Santa Marina's Colonial Pool dining establishment is tucked right into the side of capital (visitors ought to prepare themselves for a great deal of stairways). It specialises in fish and shellfish. The prawn risotto and also the sushi, prepared by the hotel's own Japanese sushi chef, are specifically great, as are some Greek staples, such as choriatike, or Greek salad with tomatoes, onions, cucumber, olives and feta cheese.
You can consume right by the sea at the Bay Sight Beach Dining establishment or have a treat on your lounger on the beach. The beach isn't really huge, but it is for unique usage by visitors. I have it to myself one morning.
It would certainly be completely easy to invest your entire time in the sprawling hotel. It has a spa (₤ 130 for an aromatherapy massage therapy for two) and even its very own little Byzantine-style chapel. It would be unforgivable not to visit Delos - a 20-minute watercraft trip from Mykonos harbour (₤ 14 return).
Tiny little Delos was the most spiritual island in old get more info Greece, the birth place of twins Beauty as well as Artemis. Today, it is uninhabited, with the exception of the island's dragon lizards-- imported from Africa by the ancient Greeks to honour Beauty's divine title of 'Lizard-slayer'.
The ruins day from the Romans right back to the 7th century BC, when Delos's biggest treasures - 5 crouching, roaring stone lions - were carved.
Back on Mykonos, it deserves employing a car or moped from any one of the numerous rental shops and also checking out the island.
The coast is ringed with coastlines.
Those on the south - safeguarded greek villas with pools in mykonos from the northerly winds - have the tendency to be much more packed. On the north shore, I have a wind-free, evening swim on crescent-shaped Ftelia Beach, with just two Greek family members for business.
At the heart of the island is the town of Ano Mera. There you'll locate the Panagia Tourliani Abbey, the religious heart of Mykonos. The wall surfaces of this delicate, 18th-century domed church are crammed with symbols. Its classical tower was created as late as the Thirties by marble-cutters from neighbouring Tinos island - you can be forgiven for thinking it was numerous centuries older.
Drive across Mykonos in spring, and also tides of blood-red poppies as well as soft-blue cornflowers stream through the areas, still sprinkled with Hercules's granite rocks.
You are back in old Greece - the thumping nightclubs of Chora really feel 3,000 years away.